Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 20 Aperture f/16.0 Focal Length 50 mm ISO Speed 100

It was a cold, quiet, crisp morning in my hometown: the type of day I would usually shoot with my 50mm lens on my D90. After a little thought and a cup of tea I put my Nikon 50mm F/1.8 D lens on the D3100. We love 50mm Prime lenses here on The Phoblographer. They are low cost and great to shoot with. We have written a few posts on this subject. I thought it would be interesting to use my 50mm F/1.8 to shoot some Bokeh and have some fun.

Bokeh

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.013 sec (1/80) Aperture f/1.8 Focal Length 50 mm ISO Speed 800 Exposure Bias 0 EV

If you just want regular Bokeh you can use a 35mm F/1.8 lens. But if you want to use something like the Bokeh Masters Kit, You need a 50mm F/1.8 lens. The Bokeh quality is nice, clear, and bright as long as you focus right. This camera just requires a little extra effort for bokeh, but it is more than capable.

D3100 & 50mm F/1.8 Combo

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.001 sec (1/1000) Aperture f/4.0 Focal Length 50 mm ISO Speed 200

The 50mm lens is an FX lens. It does not have its own autofocus motor and the D3100 does not have an auto focus screw. This means I have to focus manually. In the cold, this sucks unless you have gloves. Manual focus is good practice though. The D3100 has a focus indicator on the bottom left of the viewfinder. Shooting in any mode, with the exception of manual, the exposure meter scale will aid you in manual focus. It will point out which direction to adjust the lens. You can turn this option on in the setup Menu; it’s called “Rangefinder” function. The 50mm 1.8 D lens is a great fit for the camera, even without auto focus.

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.002 sec (1/640) Aperture f/2.8 Focal Length 50 mm ISO Speed 200

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Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.02 sec (1/50) Aperture f/2.0 Focal Length 35 mm ISO Speed 800

Next in this review: an ISO test. The Nikon D3100 has a higher ISO capability than its predecessor the D3000. Its maximum is IS0 3200 and can go up to ISO 128000 when set to HI 2. I started shooting high ISO’s from day one with this camera. The quality of the images at ISO 800 is very nice with little to no noise. Before reading, you can take a look at Day 2 in this series.

Gear

Nikon D3100

Nikon 35mm 1.8G

DeskTop Tripod

Coffee

The Test

To test the ISO I used one of my favorite subjects, coffee. I set the camera up on the desktop tripod and plugged in my remote. The D3100 has the same mini USB port as the Nikon D90. I started at ISO 100 and worked my way up.

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 4 Aperture f/5.6 Focal Length 35 mm ISO Speed 100 Exposure

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.8 Aperture f/5.6 Focal Length 35 mm ISO Speed 400

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.5 Aperture f/5.6 Focal Length 35 mm ISO Speed 800

At ISO 800 is where I started to notice the noise. After this the noise just grows.

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.25 sec (1/4) Aperture f/5.6 Focal Length 35 mm ISO Speed 1600

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.077 sec (1/13) Aperture f/5.6 Focal Length 35 mm ISO Speed 3200

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.025 sec (1/40) Aperture f/5.6 Focal Length 35 mm ISO Speed 12800(Hi2)

Thoughts on the ISO

I don’t like the ISO noise at the high range. I’d rather use a tripod and a lower shutter speed than have to shoot at this level. But for an entry-level DSLR the ISO range is very impressive. Shooting in low light and handheld can help deliver images that come out decent.

If you have questions or concerns about the ISO test, let us know in the comments below.

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So far in the review we’ve found out that the Olympus E-5 is a tough cookie from Day 3, that the raw image files are very versatile, and we’re beyond the first impressions. But the E-5 has a much sexier side to it. There are art filters built into the camera. The chart above can be clicked on (and shared) to show off the effects on one image. This will literally be nothing else but a huge image dump with other samples from each filter.

Gear Used

Olympus E-5

Olympus Zuiko 12-60mm f/2.8-4.0 Digital ED SWD

B&W 72mm filter

Art Filters

Please note that all images for this test were shot in JPEG mode. Also, I feel that the similarity between Pale&Light Color and Light Tone is almost negligible, which is why the latter was left out of this image gallery.

Pop Art Filter

Soft Focus

Pale&Light color

Grainy Film

Pin Hole

Diorama

Cross Process

Gentle Sepia

Dramatic Tone

Would you ever really use these filters? Most professionals and semi-professionals prefer to do all this work in post-processing. Olympus’s purpose of putting these in was to spend less time in programs afterward.

Because of this, the camera gets flak from many professionals because they wouldn’t use the art filters at all. Most of these shooters are also RAW only photographers.

Coming soon: a controlled photo shoot using these filters.

Let us know your thoughts on the filters.

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We love to bring you guys the latest and greatest news and gear related stuff. However, we can’t keep doing that unless we have your continued support. If you would like to purchase any of the items mentioned, please do so by clicking our links first and then purchasing the items as we then get a small portion of the sale to help run the website.

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Some of our favourite cameras you might want to check out with this deal include:

Canon s95

Canon G12

Canon 60D

Pentax K-7

Olympus E-5

Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX5

There are many other great cameras available, these were just some of the first ones which came to mind.

What happens when you take a DSLR marketed to be weatherproof and bury it under snow for a couple of minutes? While doing this, you are recording video on said DSLR. I tested that with the Olympus E-5 as part of the Field Review along with how well it performed during a snowfall.

To catch up you can read my impressions during Day 1 and my thoughts on the raw file versatility during Day 2.

Gear Used

Olympus E-5

Olympus Zuiko 12-60mm f/2.8-4.0 Digital ED SWD

B&W 72mm filter

Video Performance

The Olympus E-5 records 720p HD video at 30p. Autofocusing while recording video really isn’t worth the hassel: it can be done though. The LCD screen is very detailed and for the most part you will be able to tell what you’re focusing on. Additionally, like the Micro Four Thirds line of cameras, the LCD screen will digitally englarge the area you have selected to focus on and make manual adjustments to ensure the absolutely sharpest focusing. This is a great feature for most people: especially the visually impaired.

The microphone on the E-5 is also fairly decent. As you can hear in the video above, you can pick my voice up with relatively no problems.

A problem that I do have with the E-5‘s video recording functions is that the exposure cannot be manually set while shooting. Instead, you’ll need to change all your settings before you start recording. This can be a major problem for reportage type shooting where sometime you will need to open up the F-stop or change other settings. To be fair, the camera does auto adjust the settings—so consumers will be happy. Prosumers and professionals: I advise you to stick to the Canon, Nikon or Panasonic line of camera for video.

That said though, I’m sure that no camera from said brands can take the punishment that the E-5 can take.

Stills Performance

This was talked about more during Day 2 and you can see the photo that started it all on our Facebook page. Autofocusing of this camera remained speedy, smart, and accurate in the snow. Focusing in the snow can at times be tough when there are little objects moving in and out of the frame: or at least it used to be when I used the Olympus E-5.

The camera kept snapping away and didn’t become too cold to hold at any one point. Additionally, even when the camera became soaked by the melted snow on it it never became too difficult to hold: this is a testament to the textured ergonomics and design of the grip. Besides the Nikon D3s, the Olympus E-5 is perhaps the best grip I’ve wrapped my fingers around in a long time. I don’t have very big hands, but the camera still feels comfortable in them.

More to come in the Olympus E-5 review. If you’ve got questions about this posting let us know in the comments below.

Please Support The Phoblographer

We love to bring you guys the latest and greatest news and gear related stuff. However, we can’t keep doing that unless we have your continued support. If you would like to purchase any of the items mentioned, please do so by clicking our links first and then purchasing the items as we then get a small portion of the sale to help run the website.

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Olympus E-P1, Zuiko 14-42 f/3.5-4.5, ISO400, 14mm, 1/90th, f/4.5, -0.5EV

I recently returned from a short break with my family, where I was able to shoot for fun, to record the holiday and make some nice images. I deliberately didn’t take along my professional camera equipment, because I knew I’d start taking the photography too seriously, wanting to spend more time preparing and shooting than would be fair on my family…and, to be really honest, I didn’t want to feel like I was back at work.

The Kit

So I grabbed my Olympus E-P1 micro 4/3 outfit. The whole bag – camera, three lenses, flash, accessories – weighs just 2kg (4.4 pounds): my Canon EOS 5 with 24-105mm f/4L USM weighs over 1.5kg (3.3 pounds).

The Canon is a better camera in almost every way except for cost, size and weight, but these were the reasons I bought the Olympus in the first place.

I highly recommend you find something in your photo gear budget for something lighter and easier to carry than your DSLR – I’ve had a Canon G7 and considered the latest model before going with the Olympus because of its interchangeable lenses and much larger sensor.

I only wish the Olympus E-P2 (reviewed here) had been available at the time because the electronic viewfinder and microphone socket would have been useful. Such is life with digital gear: it is superseded quickly. Olympus’ new cameras look great.

I love the 17mm f/2.8 pancake lens on the E-P1. Google this lens and you’ll find pixel-peepers who criticize it, and they are probably right: but for handheld shooting in the reportage style it is awesome.

Olympus E-P1, Zuiko 17mm f/2.8, ISO400, 1/750th, f/4

The standard zoom is the Olympus Zuiko ED 14-42mm F3.5-5.6, a versatile, compact lens with quality optics, but its maximum aperture is a bit slow…as is the Olympus ED 40-150mm F4.0-5.6, but I don’t mind so much a slow maximum aperture with a compact telephoto zoom, because making long lenses fast also makes them very bulky, heavy and expensive. I wasn’t going to buy the 40-150 until I saw this deal from B&H. The Olympus adapter lives on the 40-150 permanently. An FL36 flash, off-camera flash lead and spare battery round out the kit.

My short break was boat based, so there was another reason not to take the Canon gear. The E-P1 kit wasn’t cheap, but I’m willing to take more risks with it than the 5D Mk II. Some of my most pleasing shots were taken from the water. A portrait of my son after he’d just stood up from underwater really shows him in his new favorite environment. Shots of the sub-tropical rainforest just north of Sydney are very pleasing, while the stills and video I shot of the small mud-dwelling crabs would have been a lot harder to shoot with the Canon gear.

Without a Laptop

Olympus E-P1, Zuiko 14-42 f/3.5-4.5, ISO200, 42mm, 1/250th, f/9

For the first time in eons I actually traveled without my laptop, opting to just take my iPad instead. The Olympus shoots to an SD card, so it was easy to transfer images – and the 720p videos – to my iPadand view them, which impressed the kids, too.

Getting away from home and not being under pressure to shoot for work meant I could take my time and shoot images which really only needed to please myself, so I was shooting flowers, interesting patterns in staircases, very touristy record shots – even boats in the rain.

If you’ve ever had to deal with a cranky travel partner because you spend too much time taking pictures, maybe it’s time to consider some gear which is lighter, smaller and faster to use for those times when it’s not JUST about shooting.

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We love to bring you guys the latest and greatest news and gear related stuff. However, we can’t keep doing that unless we have your continued support. If you would like to purchase any of the items mentioned, please do so by clicking our links first and then purchasing the items as we then get a small portion of the sale to help run the website.

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Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.002 sec (1/500) Aperture f/4.0 Focal Length 35 mm ISO Speed 100

New Jersey was recently hit with very light snowfall and a good day to take pictures. I took the Nikon D3100with me to my day job. Having a good understanding of how the focusing works from Day 1, I turned off the auto area selection feature to really give it a go. Nothing was planned I just had a little fun with my commute.

Gear Used

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.003 sec (1/400) Aperture f/4.0 Focal Length 35 mm ISO Speed 100

Nikon D3100

Nikon 35mm 1.8G

Black Rapid RS-7

Crumpler Customary Barge

Photo Walking with the D3100

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.02 sec (1/50) Aperture f/1.8 Focal Length 35 mm ISO Speed 800

A snowy day is an excellent day to test a camera. On snow days, I like to shoot with my 35mm, which is a DX lens and therefore designed for APS-C sized sensor cameras. The Nikon D3100with its small size was a great for just photo walking. It is not a camera for heavy snow. Indeed, the Nikon D3100does not feel built for that. Its small size makes it easy to hide and keep out of sight. The camera, with the right lens, gives great bokeh and depth of field.

The camera works well from 1.8 all the way through to f22. The small size and weight allows for interesting composure. The camera can be held steady with one hand, allowing the camera to be positioned in interesting ways. Knowing all the buttons allows for quick and efficient setting changes, no matter where you are.

In The Cold (and a Foggy Screen)

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.003 sec (1/320) Aperture f/4.0 Focal Length 35 mm ISO Speed 100

The camera reacts interestingly to the cold. The body does not get cold fast when not wearing gloves. The screen does not have a protector, and is flush with the camera body. When taking a picture your breath & the heat from your body fogs up the screen right away. With the Nikon D3100you have to carry around a lens cloth at all times. The LCD screen is my biggest worry about the camera because of this.

More to come in future postings! Let us know if you have questions in the meantime in the comments below.

Please Support The Phoblographer

We love to bring you guys the latest and greatest news and gear related stuff. However, we can’t keep doing that unless we have your continued support. If you would like to purchase any of the items mentioned, please do so by clicking our links first and then purchasing the items as we then get a small portion of the sale to help run the website.

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In 2010, I has hands-on time with almost every new camera from Nikon. One, which I really wanted to review, was the Nikon D3100 a solid entry-level camera and upgrade to the discontinued D3000. This camera has lots of potential.

Day one Gear

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.017 sec (1/60) Aperture f/5.6 Focal Length 55 mm ISO Speed 400

Nikon D3100 (14.2-megapixel DX-format CMOS image sensor; 3-inch monitor with One-Touch Live View shooting and movie capture; ISO 100-3200 expandable to 12800; 11-point Autofocus System)

Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 VR Stabilization lens

Black Rapid RS-7

Crumpler Customary Barge

Curiosity

Ergonomics

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.077 sec (1/13) Aperture f/5.6 Focal Length 42 mm ISO Speed 200

The camera is light and small: which is the first thing you notice when picking it up. The camera is easy to understand, especially if you have shot with a Nikon DSLR before. The grip is made of an interesting plastic. However, it is comfortable to hold.

For husbands: I let my wife hold the camera and she rather liked it. Her hands are much smaller than mine. Use this to justify the purchase

The menu is and easy to navigate on the bright, sharp LCD screen. The dedicated advance-mode switch and dedicated movie-start and live-view controls, are much improved compared to the D3000. The control dials and buttons are also straightforward.

First Day with the Camera

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.033 sec (1/30) Aperture f/5.6 Focal Length 44 mm ISO Speed 450

My shooting reflexes are tuned for the Nikon D90. I realized this when I spent the first few shots going to hit buttons in specific locations only to realize that they were either not there or in a slightly different spot. I had to unlearn what I had learned and take a day to get a better understanding of the camera. Don’t let that intimidate you though, the learning curve and ease of use of the camera are good. I put the camera in the hands of a friend who never  shot with a DSLR before and he got the settings rather quickly and took a few interesting shots.

Autofocus System

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.001 sec (1/800) Aperture f/5.6 Focal Length 32 mm ISO Speed 200

I took the camera to Exchange Place (Jersey City, New Jersey) for some quick cityscape photography. Because I rarely ever use the feature anymore, I set the autofocus system to ‘auto area’ mode. The camera made smart and quick choices in selecting focus points.

Camera Nikon D3100 Exposure 0.005 sec (1/200) Aperture f/5.6 Focal Length 32 mm ISO Speed 200

I had a good time taking a new camera out to play. Now I can comfortably go into detail on the workings of the camera. Stay tuned!

Please Support The Phoblographer

We love to bring you guys the latest and greatest news and gear related stuff. However, we can’t keep doing that unless we have your continued support. If you would like to purchase any of the items mentioned, please do so by clicking our links first and then purchasing the items as we then get a small portion of the sale to help run the website.

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Camera Nikon D90 Exposure 0.017 sec (1/60) Aperture f/5.6 Focal Length 24 mm ISO Speed 200

In Landscape Photography, composition is one of your most essential decisions. It is how you decide what you want in the frame. Every time you bring your camera to your eye, you are composing a shot. Taking time to think about your landscape photography can turn a snapshot into a great photograph. Using Rule of thirds, lead lines, foreground interest and your background, can make your images truly engaging.

Before you read this posting, perhaps you should read about gear, light and location.

Research

Camera Canon PowerShot S3 IS Exposure 0.002 sec (1/640) Aperture f/8.0 Focal Length 7.9 mm Exposure Bias 0 EV

Looking at other images, if any, of a particular area can help you come up with ideas. These images can show you how others chose to compose their image and help you to create a unique image. Google the place, look for it in Flickr and/or in Wikipedia. Looking at other images is a great strategy. Get out in the area you are shooting, explore, and understand your shot as much as you can. It will reflect in your image. Have fun with it. Landscape photography should not be work. Landscape photography should be an adventure. Take your time, and have fun. Remember never be content with what you first see. When looking at a vista, move around and get that unique shot.

Now, we’re not saying that you should copy ideas, but instead use them for inspiration to create your own work.

Yes, the Rule of Thirds Again.

Camera SIGMA DP2 Exposure 15 Aperture f/14.0 Focal Length 24.2 mm ISO Speed 50 Exposure Bias +0.3 EV

The rule of thirds is so very important to landscape photography. It helps you to organize the visual features of your scene. Look through your viewfinder and picture a tic tac toe grid. Some cameras like my Nikon D90have this as an option on the LCD screen and in the viewfinder. The points of the grid lines are great spots to place your subject. The grid lines can help you place your horizon. They are also good to help you keep your image level. If you have a strong point of focus point, like a tree or a structure, you can place one of your grid points there. The subject of your image should not be centered. Try to take images with your focal point on different grid points so you know the differences, this can really change the image.

Lead Lines

Camera SIGMA DP2 Exposure 0.4 Aperture f/14.0 Focal Length 24.2 mm ISO Speed 100 Exposure Bias -0.7 EV

Having lines in a landscape image can help give it depth and lead the viewer’s eye in the image. When composing your image, leading lines can be paths, sidewalks or coast lines. The lines can go towards your subject or away from it. It took me a little time to learn. I used train tracks as a learning tool, because it is  my major mode of transportation. In landscape photography, a major line to use is the horizon. They can divide the image between the ground and sky and provide an anchor for the image. Vertical lines can convey height and growth helping give the landscape scale. Vertical lines can also frame out a subject in an image, making the landscape the background.

Layers and Planes

Camera SIGMA SD14 Exposure 0.008 sec (1/125) Aperture f/18.0 Focal Length 43 mm ISO Speed 100

If you have large overlapping shapes (like rolling hills and mountains) in your landscape image, it can look layered. If you pay attention to your lighting, you can show different shades of color through the image.

This is also done through depth of field control.

In the Foreground

Camera Nikon D90 Exposure 0.003 sec (1/400) Aperture f/8.0 Focal Length 24 mm ISO Speed 200

A strong foreground helps to create depth. Something as simple as a flower with contrasting colors or something else that is eye catching. This, in conjunction with lead lines, will pull the viewer’s eye to one part of the photo, giving them a start point. Creating strong foreground interest is easier to do using a wide-angle lens and a small aperture like F/16 and below. The smaller apertures will provide a good depth of field.

Play with your Viewpoints

Camera Nikon D90 Exposure 1/4000 sec Aperture f/1.4 Focal Length 24 mm ISO Speed 200

Try not to shoot from the same point of view. Try to get down low and see how the shot will appear. Try to get higher. Angle your camera up a little and down a little. Take the time to look at as many vantage points as possible. Over time, it will become instinct and you will be able to see the best position for a shot right away.  This will help your landscapes be as unique as possible.

Please Support The Phoblographer

We love to bring you guys the latest and greatest news and gear related stuff. However, we can’t keep doing that unless we have your continued support. If you would like to purchase any of the items mentioned, please do so by clicking our links first and then purchasing the items as we then get a small portion of the sale to help run the website.

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Recently I wrote about styles of photography. This made me think and look into other styles of photography. Some styles of photography I have tried. Some styles I will not be able to try, but it is good to know they exist. I believe you must try everything once to discover what you want to try again.

Architectural Photography

A style I have made an attempt at is architectural photography. While on my various photo walks in different cities, I have taken  pictures of buildings I have found interesting. Architectural photography, exterior and interior, is creating a portrait of a building. One might use surrounding scenery to give the buildings context. You can choose to bring out the texture and details of the building using lighting and particular angles. Generally Wide angle lenses or Tilt Shift lenses are used. If you have room to work with, a telephoto lens can flatten out the perspective of the image and eliminate distortion that can occur when using wide angle lenses. A photographer can spend a lot of time specializing in Architectural photography; picking out interesting details to make the image stand out, rather than just photographing the entire building. Architectural photography does not just consist of buildings either. Bridges, monuments and anything else constructed can be included in this style of photography.

Miksang (contemplative photography)

(Note, I do not know how ‘official’ this style is, but I really like it, and shall be looking into more, it plays into my idea of ‘PhotoMeditation’ or photography as meditation)

I know, you are thinking WTF is that. Well contemplative photography also known as Miksang is something I find very interesting. Miksang is a Tibetan word that translates as ‘Good Eye’, based on the Shambhala and Dharma Art teachings of the late Chögyam Trungpa, Rinpoche. In essence, this type of photography is like street photography, but on a more artistic level. With this style of photography everything is to be kept as simple as possible. The idea is to find joy and awareness by attending to the minor and seemingly insignificant–the colors, patterns and textures that exist in the close-up world. This style of photography, prime lenses like my Nikon 50mm and Macro lenses like my Sigma 70-300 DG macro, seem perfect.

Professional Sports photography

I am a geek. I am not really into sports, but I’ve been known to watch soccer and football on occasion. Sports photography, in the professional sense, is an offshoot of photojournalism that focuses on sports. It  is used in advertising to help create narratives for sporting events in brand building, magazines, news papers and websites focusing on sports. The equipment for professional sports photography  can be expensive. A full frame camera like a Nikon D3s or a Canon 1D Mk 4 and fast wide aperture F/2.8 telephoto zoom lenses are preferred to clearly stop action and get close to it with as little noise as possible.

War photography

War is an ugly and dirty part of our reality as humans. As long as photography has been able to, it’s been recording war images, from death, to people being freed. It is an extremely dangerous field of work to be in. Before being hired by the New York times in December 2010 a photographer, Joao Silva , was badly injured by an  Afghan Mine. Capturing images during war times can be one of the most dangerous jobs in the world. War photographers throw themselves into the middle of a conflict. The gear, as well as the photographers, has to be rugged and ready to get the image at a moment’s notice. I will most likely never get any experience in war photography, but I will forever respect the photographers who expose themselves to danger.

Wedding photography

Image By Chris Gampat

I know many wedding photographers. They record that special day for a Bride and Groom. Wedding photography is a lot of work. The couples can want announcements, portrait displays, and/or thank you cards as well as the main event. With technological advancements, photographers are also incorporating video in their wedding photography as well. There are many opinions on what a equipment and approaches to use, but wedding photography is a style that should never be taken lightly. We’ve written lots and lots on wedding photography here, and here is our Essential Wedding Resource Listing.

Please Support The Phoblographer

We love to bring you guys the latest and greatest news and gear related stuff. However, we can’t keep doing that unless we have your continued support. If you would like to purchase any of the items mentioned, please do so by clicking our links first and then purchasing the items as we then get a small portion of the sale to help run the website.

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